KFLAANVSOARSSAMANDA B. CAUSEY

Kansas flavors

KANSASFLAVORS

Kansas flavorsAMANDA B. CAUSEYART 580MAURESA MITCHELLSPRING 2020

KANSASFLAVORSAMANDA B. CAUSEY 2/3

Kansas flavors table of contents Breadbasket OF AMERICA BEGINNING. . . . . . 6 REVOLUTION. . . . . . 8 STORES. . . . . . . . 14 RESTAURANTS. . . . 18 DESERTS. . . . . . . . 22

AMBER WAVES absenceOF GRAIN of pollenBREWING PROCESS. . . . 31 WHY BEES MATTER. . . . 56BEER CULTURE. . . . . . 39 A GLOBAL SCALE. . . . . . 62KANSAS TERRITORY. . . . 43 HOW TO HELP. . . . . . 66DRY SPELL. . . . . . . . 46 4/5

Kansas flavors Don’t want to bake? Newton has fresh bakery bread at The Breadbasket!

Breadbasketof AmericaAMANDA B. CAUSEY Whether or not you call Kansas the Sun- flower State, the Wheat State or the Bread- basket of America, Kansas food has always been innovative. From the time of a brand- new state with sunflowers, bison, honey and wheat; to the influx of diversity with ingre- dients all the way from Asia, Germany and anywhere beyond, we have been trans- forming the food landscape. However, as with any landscape, we have dry spells as well. The settlers were able to draw their resources straight from the environment to create sustenance, but our modern food environment is not as accessible, which ef- fects how Kansans interact with food. On this journey through time we will experience new foods with the settlers, visit Kansas native producers, check into some local grocery stores, stop by a few small-town restaurants, and take a serious look at Kan- sas’s food insecurities. 6/7

Kansas flavors BEGINNING increase nutritional value. There was also the introduction of corn. Whether or not The first Kansas settlers began with home- you believe the Indians established corn, grown international recipes, traditions or the Mexicans brought it over; many new and flavors. For most of them, moving to recipes were made from this staple veg- a different country solidified their taste etable. They made corn and bean soup, for home. They brought their English Pan- numerous varieties of cornbread as well as cakes, Scottish Scones, and Swedish Al- corn-based puddings. Eventually, honey- mond Cakes, these recipes prepared with bees migrated to Kansas and their honey local ingredients have created new tradi- making skills came along. This organic in- tions of their own. However, moving to gredient was mixed into breads, crackers this new territory created new challenges and cakes. This not only added a natural which not only affected daily life but food sweetness to mostly flavorless meals, but availability as well. To the settlers, there also created a stable food with a longer were foreign types of meat, such as bison, lasting life. As the settlers became more which lived in numbers up to the millions familiar with the landscape, they began to and fed the Native Indian tribes. The In- hunt the wild game and gather local fruits. dian’s taught the settlers how to prepare There wasn’t always enough food though, bison into buffalo jerky and this became a and the changing seasons were rough on long-lasting food staple. Another key re- crops and animals alike. This forced the gional ingredient were the abundant sun- settlers to eat quick bland foods over and flower seeds. They were usually stripped over again. Main meals in small portions of their oils and mixed with flour and other consisted of corn pies, flapjacks, pone, ingredients to make bread. Additionally, they were added into mush and cakes to

You can buy grains at the Old Town Farm & Art Market in Wichita!with buffalo jerky and pork later on. The in-flux of people from all over the world cre-ated new recipes and new methods fromunique cultural traditions. Through trial, er-ror and hardships, their food experimentsbecame our food culture.Even though food nutrition was not yetstudied or fully understood, the settlers hadunique traditions that came from a varietyof gathering, preparing and preserving thefood the land provided them with. Most ofus today feel disconnected from the way weobtain, prep and preserve food. These stepsare still vital to food culture as we know it. Intoday’s society we rely on others to grow,prep and sell local ingredients and expecteasy access to the final product, but this iseasier said than done. To begin this farm totable journey, I will propel us into the futureof local production, places to obtain it, aswell as places to eat it. Another great place to buy grain is from Heartland Mill in Marienthal. 8/9

Kansas flavors REVOLUTION running, this mill, reconstructed and even moved from its original site, has Let’s begin in the Industrial Revolution, a time where soci- been a long-time familiar and proud ety began to leave agriculture behind as mass-production, landmark. In 1973 it was added to assembly lines, and large-scale manufacturing tools be- the National Register of Historical came the workhorses of our economy. This type of indus- Places and some of the pieces that try spread across the country and in 1879 caught the eye could not be reconstructed are lo- of John Schonoff, from Wamego, Kansas. He realized the cated at the Wamego Historical So- local farmers were still grinding corn and wheat by hand. ciety and Museum. The new Dutch He decided to improve upon this system and build a wind Mill is located in the park where it driven mill. It was amassed together with forty feet high can be viewed by travelers from all limestone walls and forged with iron to create a master- over, perhaps stopping by for the ful piece of work. Inside the second story window was Wizard of Oz Fest or even the Tulip adorned a statue of Ceres, the “Goddess of Grain” a Festival. (Dutch Mill 2010). tribute from a local stonemason. It used two stones; one called the base(bottom) stone and the cap(top). The cap weighing in around two thousand pounds was not a small feat to accomplish. The base was flat and sat stationary on the floor while the cap revolved above the base. This was novel, due to the fact that others mills during this pe- riod did the opposite, where the base revolved and the cap stood still. When in use the cap stone would complete around 100 revolutions per minute. When milling, grain was poured through a hole from a hopper and flour would then stick in the curb around the base stone. Each stone had furrows and depending upon where it landed inside that angled furrow, dictated its fineness. Though no longer

STOP IN WAMEGOFOR SWEET TREATS,FLOWERS AND A TRIPTO THE LAND OF OZ. See beautiful spring flowers on your journeydown the yellow brick road! 10/11

Kansas flavors Love milk, cheese or ice cream? Stop by Hildebrand Farms Dairy in Junction City. Now we are going to time travel into the 1920’s. When a young man named Arnold Hildebrand, who immigrated from Swit- zerland, landed in Junction City, Kansas. His dream was to start a family and have a small farm. On February 15, 1930, Arnold received his permit and began to sell milk. One wife, seven children and four cows lat- er, they would end up bottling up the fresh milk into glass bottles and dropping them off door-to-door. This is one family tradi- tion that did not die. Most of his grandchil- dren propelled this dream; starting in 1949 when his only son bought 120 additional acres to build a new dairy farm, storage sys- tem and grain storage. As of 1975 it offi- cially became Hildebrand Farms Dairy. Over time they have grown as a working family with many generations working on various aspects of daily dairy life. They have also grown in size, as of 2008 they began bot- tling all of their products on-site, still with the traditional glass bottles Arnold began his humble business with. As of 2008 they have grown from 4 cows to around 150 and sell their seven varieties of milk throughout 120 local grocery stores in Kansas.

Keep local places open, stop by your local grocery store.Though no longer at its first location, the sources such as tomatoes, which are grownHildebrand family still loves producing milk, by Kansas State University. Not only doessharing their knowledge, and showing their she get local but sells local as well. Theymilking process from beginning to end. They have teamed up with other local producer’salso enjoy holding events to bring dairy lov- such as the Alma Creamery to promote lo-ers closer to the cows that create it. Stop cal brands. Each personalized gift basketsby during their Annual Harvest Festival and is a custom Kansas creation. The Marketsenjoy some freshly churned ice cream on a also provide food to local restaurants suchhayride, or pick up a cheese wheel, a carafe as Radina’s Coffeehouse and Bakery. Whileof milk, and some locally grown pumpkins to conversing with the Manager, Pam Smith,bring to your next fall family gathering (Hil- I learned that people come here purposelydebrand Farms Dairy, n.d.). for the locally grown fruits and veggies. Pam expressed that even veggies have a trend-Let’s proceed to 1976, the location Manhat- ing season. She said that “a couple of yearstan, Kansas. This is the summer that Terry ago no one wanted to buy brussels sproutsOlson decided to promote her homegrown and now we have a demand for them” (Pamproduce from a little shack on the westside Smith, in person, September 21, 2019). Aof town. She saw a need for local seasonal- couple of weeks after speaking to the man-ly grown fruits and veggies, and this insight ager, I had heard the news that Terry Olsonpaid off. Since her humble start she has ex- has decided to retire. She has placed bothpanded to two locations, one on the west- locations up for sale and as of yet, no oneside and one on the eastside, respectively has taken up on that offer. Retiring, as Kan-called the Eastside and Westside Markets. sas residents grow older, is a main concernWith growth came new product lines, such for small towns as they slowly fade away.as houseplants, custom fruit baskets, andKansas grown bedding plants. She re-ceives her fresh line up from numerous local 12/13

Kansas flavorsLOCAL WINE, CIDER,AND PIZZA, SIGN ME UP!

From 1976 we are going to jump forward tection in the winter. The great southern ex-in time and enter the month of September posure is ideal so that the grapes are ablein the year 2014. This is the special year to ripen with the direct sunlight during thewhen David and Danielle Tegtemeier start- early spring and late fall seasons. Once theed by clearing out 10 acres of woods on grapes are picked, they age them in Frenchthe outskirts of Manhattan, Kansas. They Oak barrels dependent upon the final tasteassembled 1,000 wooden posts, as well as they want to provide. After the wine has2,500 steel post with drip lines, to create aged, they are more than happy to let youa local vineyard called Liquid Art Winery & have a taste. Their tasting room is for any-Estate. The Flint Hills of Kansas may seem one the age of 21 and older that would likelike a really odd location, however, due to to try the local fare. They have 16 differentthe couple’s positions at previous wineries wines, 7 ciders and Artisan pizza (Liquid Artand the knowledge gained there, they un- Winery & Estate 2014). They enjoy creatingderstood what they were looking at, and the new and unique flavors and are always im-potential this humble location had. It had proving their taps. Want more than a taste?the perfect topography and soil. The soil is Reserve this picturesque location for a pri-a major contributing factor when it comes vate event or even a wedding. Many localto growing grapes, and as European wine- visitors stop by to enjoy a glass of winemakers discovered, the best soil for grapes grown from local ground, while enjoying ais actually clay and limestone. The Flint Hills panoramic view of the Flint Hills.are known for these highly calcareous min-erals. Grape roots can shoot down aroundthis rock and feed from the nutrients within.Another contributing factor was the riseand fall of the land. This provides frost pro- 14/15

Kansas flavors STORES ucts may be more expensive and come and go per season, but also help support your Production gets things started, but where do local producers through buying from your most food products go after that? Grocery local grocery stores. stores, though perhaps what they sell and how they sell it has changed over the years, most of Now we are going to enter the 1900’s spe- them still sell locally sourced foods. cifically 1948. This is the year when Dante Cosentino Sr., an artist who painted fres- Let’s roll back to Sterling, Kansas in 1890 coes in churches for a living, made a ma- when John S. Dillon started a local grocery jor life change and bought a little fruit stand store, where goods were delivered directly to in Kansas City, Kansas. This idea evolved your house and you were charged later. Though into Cosentino’s Food Stores. Thirty full a great idea, not very financially strong. After fledged family run grocery stores with the this trial and error, he changed his directive main goal focused on local community and and started a business called “J.S. Dillon Cash cleanliness. They focus on building long Store” with the new concept of “cash and car- lasting relationships with each person that ry” this idea worked out very well. In 1919 both steps into their store. The current second- of his sons returned from the war, took over the generation owners understand the impact business and it proceeded to boom from there. of personal service and how this affects the As of today, Dillon’s has bought other grocery entire community it resides in. They take retailers with a total of 93 stores and around great pride in including and giving back to 12,000 employees (Dillon’s 2019). They have the hungry. In just the last year they have grown from their original roots and now have donated one million dollars to the Harvest- headquarters located in Hutchinson, Kansas. ers Food Network and various local food Their bakery and dairy manufacturing plants pantries (Cosentino’s Food Stores 2019). are also there. Even though they have become Another reason to stop by is the ability to a large chain they still are proud to sell local. buy locally produced food which in turn will The location you shop at determines the lo- circle back to the community. Working to- cal foods you will find available. In Manhattan, gether as a community creates the culture Kansas you can pick up some Hildebrand Milk, we live and thrive in. Hudson Flour from Hudson, Kansas as well as many other local producers. Most local prod-

Look for local items at your Dillon’s Store!Cosentino’s is still a great placeto shop for locally made goods. 16/17

Kansas flavors Grab some fresh fruit & veggies from Britt’s Farm in Manhattan!

Let’s move forward to 1969 when Gilbert (Box) and nication that “Right now we do have it for sale. I amMary Poell started a little grocery store in Hanover, Kan- wanting to sell because I am ready for a change not be-sas. Though their ownership only lasted 12 years and cause we “have to close” (Jenea Bruna, email, Octoberliterally burned down, the next couple to own the store, 30, 2019). She goes on to say that she sells productsWayne and Nancy Crome, knew there was a need to cheaper than the competitors and all that money goeskeep this little store going. They rebuilt in a new loca- directly back to the community, though “Wal-Mart, Dol-tion, changed the name to Crome’s Market and began lar General and Amazon have a huge impact on …smalltheir 30-year run. Proudly selling food such as local independent owner(s)” (Jenea Bruna, email, Octoberhoney and treating each customer as family. They also 30, 2019). The store is still currently open, and she isexpanded in 1986 with a whole new edition to sell re- hoping that someone local buys it and they can keepfrigerated goods. When it came time for them to retire, the store going. With the threat of dominating largertheir daughter and son-in-law were more than happy to corporations moving in and taking over, smaller familystep in. Darren and Jenea Bruna have been running the owned businesses are struggling and with each closing,store since 2010 and have hired many local employ- create a devastating ripple throughout the community.ees, promote other little local businesses, and let localgardeners bring in fresh seasonal fruits and vegetables.The owners also have teenage children and bring foodfor local sporting activities and give to local food banks.However, Jenea expressed through our email commu- 18/19

Kansas flavors RESTAURANTS manded an increase in space, and in 1948 as well as 1960 she made additions to the Grocery Stores are not the only way to de- hotel. Rooms were not the only addition how- liver our locally produced foods. Restaurants ever, and as the years passed by, many gen- are a delicious and easy way to experience erations of Martins continued to manage the locally grown food through thoughtful reci- hotel. As of 1982 Mark and Connie Martin, pes and fresh ingredients. In today’s society 4th-generation management, took over, and we say we want farm to table fresh food, so in 2000 decided to expand and move the what could be closer to a local table than in- hotel to its current location in Abilene, Kan- gredients grown locally. sas. Helen’s “Family Style Chicken Dinners” (Brookville Hotel 2019) have not changed and consist of 7 original dishes, with the main We will begin this tour in 1894 in the small dish being a one-half skillet of fried chicken. town of Brookville, Kansas. In this little cow (Brookville Hotel 2019) Even though this lo- town, three hotels sprang up, but only one cation is called a hotel, there are no longer has stood the test of time. The owners, Gus any rooms for sleeping but several for eating. and Mea Magnuson began with the idea of a When you stop by, be prepared to be taken grand hotel, but Mae’s excellent home cook- back in time with the buildings old-fashioned ing surpassed this idea and food became the facade, elegant old-world decorations, and main focus. As the couple grew older, their platters of homemade food, passed around daughter Helen Martin began to shine with the table family style. her knack for cooking and in 1915 her “Fam- ily Style Chicken Dinners” (Brookville Hotel 2019) became the talk of the town and are still well-known today. In 1933 she became the owner and later gained a devoted follow- ing from feeding the World War II soldiers from the Smoky Hill Air Base. This steady flow of word-of-mouth kept the people streaming in, and the increase in people de-

STOP BY FOR THISFULL MEAL DEAL. 20/21

Kansas flavors No time to bake? Stop by Morning Glory Bakery in Westmoreland.

Next we will stop by Radina’s Coffeehouse and distributes food to alleviate hunger& Bakery, a local Manhattan, Kansas staple and established Nurture Projects to fightsince 2001. The Radina Family proudly poverty. As of 2019, they have 7 locationsuses local ingredients because “local throughout Manhattan and continue totastes better” (Radina’s Coffeehouse & grow and promote local. This is where cul-Bakery 2019). They use milk from Emrick tural traditions mix with local ingredients.Family Creamery located in Onaga, Kan- The baguette they plate up is made withsas. Their unbleached white flour that is traditional French techniques. The sour-baked into almost all of their breads is from dough made with flour, milled in Salina,Stafford County Flour Mills in Salina, Kan- conjoined with the K-State Bakery starter,sas. They also proudly have a sourdough traveled across the US from San Franciscostarter that was developed through the K- to excite our taste buds. Then, last but notState Bakery Science program. Not only least, is the Chocolate Cherry Bread thatdo they bring in local, but they send it out combines Dutch cocoa, Belgian chocolate,as well. For every loaf of bread they sell, Michigan cherries and Kansas wheat tothey donate a loaf to the local Community make a local scrumptious sweet treat.Food Network called the Flint Hills Bread-basket. This mission was founded in 1982 22/23

Kansas flavors Feel free to expereince real bison at Lazy Heart D Ranch. Now we are going to jump to 2008. The most all the food he bakes. He uses local location, Wamego, Kansas. The new own- honey to sweeten his treats. Bison for juicy ers Mike Pray and Jake Trummer are on a burgers from Lazy Heart D Ranch located homemade cooking adventure. The Friend- in Westmoreland, Kansas. He also uses ship House, which is a literal house, has local seasonal fruits and veggies from lo- been around since 1980. The new owners cal gardeners. For every step he explained bought this restaurant from a sweet old lady his process and how the fresh ingredients who wanted to keep this small-town bakery interacted with each other. At the end of alive. Though they updated the logo, they each bake, I got to taste each item. They kept the slogan the same, “Home cook- were very delicious, and I would highly rec- ing just like Grandma makes”. (Friendship ommend stopping by for a bite. They also House, n.d.) They are very passionate about bring in far off flavors with local ingredients this motto. I had the good fortune of being into bakes such as Belgian Waffles, French able to meet with Jake the owner, who is Toast and their German Breakfast Bierocks. also the head chef. He is an inspiring person Even though they are holding onto tradi- to be around and loves his work. He comes tions, they are actively keeping up with the in around 5:30am and stays until 10pm and time by adding a lunch option to the menu, bakes all day. On the day I stopped by, he as well as adding a 4-van fleet catering ser- made Italian Herb Focaccia Bread, French vice that traverses the state. They may be Eclairs and biscuits which have roots from small but have become a popular destina- Africa, Asia and Europe. Each recipe was tion for “made from scratch” foods (Jake personally created by him and baked by Trummer, in person, September 28, 2019). him. He uses fresh local ingredients in al-

Want to try Kansas made bread?Stop by Farm to Market Bread Co.at various stores throughout the state. 24/25

Kansas flavors DESERTS agriculture heads into the future, so do the soaring prices of machines, chemicals and Now we are going to visit a present-day biobased nonfood products that turn ed- concern for this state. Why the Breadbas- ible seeds and meats into manufactured by- ket of America is becoming known as a food products. The chemical process begins at desert. As of October 2019, Kansas was the very beginning of the production cycle ranked the leading state for wheat, beef, making the food that is growing right out- and grain sorghum production, (Shaban- side of your town, inedible, and if taken di- deh, M 2019) but is falling behind trying to rectly from the ground, dangerous to eat. keep its agriculture stature thriving. Many Producers and sellers want to provide and factors contribute to this decline. The cycli- sell the current trends, which at this time cal nature of farming is currently depending is the farm to table organic esthetic. How- on the hardy older generation who continue ever, due to strict food rules and regula- to stay in Kansas, while the young leave. The tions many of Kansas’s food end up travel- excessively developed fields and oft times ing across the world or become nonedible unused land for Ag business, compound- food products. All of these factors leave the ed with the constantly changing weather, Breadbasket of America empty and hungry. keeps farmers on the edge of their seats. The extreme weather creates droughts one We know Kansas has local producers year and floods the next, while equally killing and sellers who are shipping our product plants and animals alike. These factors cre- around the world, so what is happening ate sky high prices with low returns. Local here to keep it here? According to The and international producers as well as sell- Kansas Healthy Food Initiative (KHFI) or- ers try to offset these numbers and regulate ganized by the Center for Engagement how and where our food ends up, with the product rarely coming back to Kansas. As

and Community Development through Not all help comes from large scaleKansas State University, “more than operations though. Locals have be-800,000 (Kansans) do not have access to gun to take a stand, or more literally,(healthy, affordable food) with a reason- a truck, to fight against food deserts.able distance from their home.” (The Kan- Megan Mulvihill and Natasha El-Scarisas Healthy Food Initiative 2018) These have created a high-end, full-servicelocal food deserts are in great need of grocery truck. This mobile marketassistance. This affects everyone, ranging called “Rollin’ Grocer” is about “pro-from young to old, and located mostly in viding a sustainable business model”underprivileged neighborhoods. Through (Smith 2016) where customers canthis understanding the Kansas Health purchase a majority of their needs.Foundation has invested $4.2 million dol- This custom-built truck carries morelars to update technology, boost food dis- than 600 different items from spam,tribution, create energy efficient access kale and toilet paper. The owners sayand implement innovative solutions. In they drive right up to locations that2007, K-State also began the Rural Gro- are in need and are more than will-cery Store Initiative, a partnership that is ing to take requests from customers.working with The Food Trust and NetWork According to Donna Leuchten Nuc-Kansas, as they focus on “food retail for cio from The Reinvestment Fund inunderserved populations” (The Kansas Philadelphia, mobile grocery storesHealthy Food Initiative 2018). These cor- are becoming popular in smaller cit-porations are making a stand and invest- ies where food deserts are concen-ing money to try to keep Kansans well fed. trated (Smith 2016). 26/27

Kansas flavors This small truck is changing the way we dis- This in turn effects what is sold and bought tribute foods to underserved areas, as lo- in local stores as well as what is served in cal producers, stores and restaurants close restaurants. Whether or not you buy Italian across the state, awareness is slowly grow- Focaccia Bread from the Friendship House ing and so are contemporary ideas to com- or the French Baguette from Radina’s, they bat it. There are food deserts across the use local traditions that were brought along country and whether you are an individual and still continue in Kansas food culture to- fighting the local government or an orga- day. However, not everyone is able to par- nization fighting policies, Kansas will find take in this seemingly simple facet of life. a way to combat food deserts. Providing People from all over the state are lacking knowledge to the younger generation about access to healthy and sustainable foods. the importance of farming, keeping a healthy As awareness of this issue grows, so do the check on sustainable trends, and keeping people with initiative to act. Whether or not local food local, will keep Kansas food cul- you are from a small Kansas town, here for ture thriving for generations to come. school, or just traveling through, you have been affected by Kansas food culture. The Wheat, honey, bison, and many other in- foods you buy and consume seep into the gredients have been produced, eaten and local community helping the locals keep sold locally. They were made by passion- their small Kansas towns alive. ate people who take their jobs seriously and want to sustain Kansas agriculture.

Choose local first!Help locals put fresh food on thier plates, donate to local pantries. 28/29

Kansas flavors Love BBQ? Stop by Gates Bar-B-Q in Leawood!

AMBER WAVESof GRAIN ANDY HARE Beer is an alcoholic beverage made from a simple fermentation process involving grains, yeast, hops, and water. Because of its simplicity, beer has been a popular drink throughout history. Beer has had a long and interesting past across the world. People of every time period developed their own ver- sion, some civilizations improving on oth- ers. Each time a new beer was created, there were cultures formed around it. Beer and brewing have shaped a unique culture over time and that culture can still be seen all over the globe. One place that beer cul- ture is ever present, is Kansas. With a rich history of brewing along with more than a century of prohibition, Kansas has been a great place for growth of the industry. This inside look into brewing and beer culture is Kansas: Amber Waves of Grain. 30/31

Kansas flavors HAVE A TYPE? MALT, CORN OR RICE.

BREWING PROCESS the malting process (Bamforth 2003, 51). That being said, someone has to malt the It’s impossible to talk about beer and the barely, so to begin, this step involves barley culture surrounding it without first going into and water. The barley is steeped in water to how you make it. To start, the most common activate hormones in the plant causing it to ingredients are malted barley, water, hops, soften. The germination process helps pro- and yeast (Bamforth 2003, 49). These are duce the flavor of the beer. Next the germi- standard in most brews in the most coun- nated barley must be heated to keep mois- tries. Some countries will limit the ingre- ture levels low and to stabilize the product. dients you can use in beers. For example, From here, the process goes further for dif- Germany only allows the ingredients listed ferent beers, each with a slightly different above and a few more, so their beers are process (Bamforth 2003, 52). more limited in variety. While other coun- tries can produce more diverse flavors and After completing the malting process, the drinks, they could have more issues involv- brewing portion can begin. This begins by ing the plethora of ingredients (Bamforth milling the malt produced previously. The 2003, 49). Assuming this is the standard malted barley is the typical “grist” material brewing process, we will begin at malting. for brewing, alongside roasted malts, corn, and rice (Bamforth 2003, 53). The brewing process begins with Malting. Lots of breweries order pre-malted barley, as it requires more equipment and more space to malt barley. Overall, it’s more cost effec- tive to buy the barley after it’s undergone 32/33

Kansas flavors Try a variety of beer at the Blind Tiger Brewery in Topeka. This should turn the malted material into come diluted. The material is then gath- a flour, with small granules that are more ered with as much fermentable mixture as susceptible to water. The grist material is possible, any grains that can’t be used are then stored temporarily before being sent removed and eventually sold off to feed to a mash mixer or mash tun (Bamforth cattle (Bamforth 2003, 55). 2003, 54). Mashing is reactivating the hy- drolysis process similar to malting as seen Next, the wort gets pumped into a kettle to before. Enzymes will eat the sugars within be boiled (Bamforth 2003, 55). During this the cell walls of the grist. Temperatures process, many things are done to turn wort rise and the starches become a gelatin. into a more drinkable substance. This step The mash materials will have the temper- is where the hops are added, as a bitter- atures raised further to stop the enzymes ing agent (Bamforth 2003, 55). The hops activity and decrease the overall viscosity will help counteract the amount of sugar (Bamforth 2003, 55). in the beer, balancing out the taste. Some breweries add the whole cone shaped hop Because there are sugars produced dur- bud, but this requires the residual hops to ing the process, this sugary substance be filtered out before the next step. Many (called wort) is then sent into a lauter tun. of the breweries today will just use a pro- This tun has a shallow bed and the sug- cessed hop mix, which looks like a pellet. ary substance gets raked so the granules This is typically easier and more time effec- loosen. Hot water “sparges” the grains in tive (Bamforth 2003, 56). light amounts, so the wort does not be-

Check out other kettlesat Tallgrass Tap House in Manhattan! 2/3 34/35

Kansas flavors Grab a beer from Salt City Brewing Co. in Hutchinson!

Try a flight from Wakarusa Brewery in Eudora.The wort is then sent to the whirlpool. The production of lagers. During fermentation,spinning of the whirlpool helps separate the the yeast eats the sugars produced in thewort and the spent grains even more. This earlier steps of brewing, thus creating al-produces a well-mixed and clear wort that is cohol (Bamforth 2003, 57). The speed andcloser to the fermentation stage (Bamforth amount of alcohol created in the beer de-2003, 56). To finish preparations, it must be pends on how much yeast is used duringcooled first. Typically, this stage involves a this process. The yeast also adds a bit ofparaflow device where the wert is pumped flavor to the beer, so the specific strains ofthrough a pipe adjacent to a pipe full of cold yeast are watched closely so they can keepwater. Now that the wort is cooled, brewers a consistent taste (Bamforth 2003, 57).bubble in oxygen for the yeast to grow duringfermentation (Bamforth 2003, 57). The wort Most beers are then stabilized, where theis now ready for the next step of the process. brewer takes the beer as close to freezing temperature as possible (Bamforth 2003,Depending on the style of beer, there are 58). Different styles of beers stay this waydifferent types of yeast you can use in fer- for a certain amount of time. At this timementation. Top fermenting yeast is typical there are other materials added to assist inin ales and as it suggests, the yeast floats the stabilization process. Some brewers willto the surface. There’s also bottom ferment- use proteins to remove the haze, while oth-ing yeast, where the yeast sinks and settles ers employ antioxidants that help the beerat the bottom of the tank. Bottom fermen- from going stale (Bamforth 2003, 58).tation is historically more common for the 36/37

Kansas flavors Lastly, the beer is filtered to get rid of some brewing. Throughout the process they can tell when extra haze to make it brighter. Then the things are happening correctly and when things go CO2 levels are checked before they get wrong. They make sure that the beer is made correctly packaged (Bamforth 2003, 58). In packag- for consumers. The consumers will form their opinions ing, you can either can, bottle, keg, or barrel on who has the best beer based on what happens the beer. It’s really up to the brewers on how behind the scenes, often unknowingly. When drink- it will be sold. There are lots of specifica- ing beer people begin to notice the flavors that are tions with fill levels and weight that go into brought to life by each part of the brewing process. this step of the process. This is where leg- That’s what makes brewing so important. islation on sales and such come in to play. Making sure everything is clean and safe With the understanding of the current brewing pro- to drink is important (Bamforth 2003, 58). cess, you can begin to see where people could cre- The labels that go on the bottle help peo- ate a variety of beers. The reason this process even ple know what they are drinking, and it may exists is because of the vast history and culture even attract them to a certain drink. formed by brewing across the world. Even though the process has become more advanced, the one The breweries know each step is as impor- thing that hasn’t changed is our love for beer. tant as the last in the brewing process. Hav- ing experienced brewers that know what they’re doing is the most important part of

BEER CULTURE ISALIVE AND BREWING. 38/39

Kansas flavors Switch up your sweets recipes, add some beer!

BEER CULTURE Beer’s popularity can be seen in many cultures through- out history. Ever since its rough creation in different countries, beer has continued to be a staple in society. As far back as 5,000 years ago, the Egyptian Book of the Dead speaks of “heqa” a beer like drink made from a red barley (Higgins 1992, 1). We’ve been able to look back through history and many thinks this is the earliest form of beer. Other cultures after the Egyptians have also been known to create beer like drinks. One of these ancient cultures was the ancient Sumerians, who had a goddess of beer named Ninkasi. The Hymn to Ninkasi is a song to praise this goddess, but also an ancient recipe for beer. They had a rule in the famous and historic Hammurabi code that made a trade with one cup of barley equal to a cup of beer (Higgins 1992, 1). Other great societies followed along with the furthering of beers creation. The Greeks be- came known for Zythos, a beer some say could soften ivory and caused leprosy. The ancient Norse warriors are known to have drank an early form of ale from the skulls of their enemies. The Scottish had a wheat beer and in medieval Europe, malt drinks were popular because it was safer to drink than the water or milk (Higgins 1992, 1). 40/41

Kansas flavors Gather some friends and go to Sandhills Brewing in Mission. In many of these cultures, beer was seen as a big part of celebration. No one would have a festival without it. Religious leaders never looked down the people for drink- ing because many monasteries took part in the brewing and brewed some of the most desired beers. Monks were atop the beer market in Europe for centuries, sometimes they even outlawed home brewing so the church could make more money. The monks are credited with calling the drink “bibere” meaning “to drink” in Latin (Higgins 1992, 1). Other than the monks, there were other big players in the worlds beer industry. One of the most well-known countries for brew- ing was Germany (Higgins 1992, 3).

Radius Brewing Co. is a great place to grab a beer and socialize!The Germans have been the largest beer manufac- beers. Later in the 18th century the Englishturers in the world. In the 14th century they were the created a heavy dark beer known as por-at the top of the world in beer sales. People would ter. Many people later enjoyed the creationtravel to Germany to tour and even learn how to make of a sweeter tasting beer known as stout.beer. People wanted to know how to make Lager, a The English were quick to realize the moneybeer developed in Germany that is one of the main in brewing and began to start commercialstyles of beer we still drink today (Higgins 1992, breweries. In the 1830s, commercial brew-3). Many Germans were innovative and created ad- eries made four fifths of all beer in Englandvancements in brewing. One advancement they are (Higgins 1992, 3). Of course, beer eventu-credited with is adding hops to beer to round out the ally made its way to the United States. Backflavors (Higgins 1992, 3). Hops are still an important then, the Europeans brought it over on theiraspect in brewing used to this day. boats because it was easier to store than fresh water. They started the first breweryWord of using the cone shaped plant known as on Manhattan Island, which is now part ofhops made its way through the beer scene across New York City (Higgins 1992, 4).the world. Brewers began to include hops in Eng-land to create Ale the other main well-known beerstyle, which was slightly different from the German 42/43

Kansas flavors HOME ON THE RANGE.

KANSAS TERRITORY which was larger than its current boundaries. Later on, in development around 1850, the area we know The culture had stuck in America. Many as Leavenworth became a hub for breweries. Brew- learned how to homebrew, even George ing became one of the state’s first industries (Hig- Washington and Benjamin Franklin dab- gins 1992, 8). In 1861 Kansas was formed under the bled in it (Higgins 1992, 4). As Americans Union as a free state. With other states as models learned to love beer, the amount made grew and by following the federal government, Kansas be- to match it. The industry spread across the came a state. Then in 1862 Abraham Lincoln signed country hitting the Midwest and creating a the Homestead act, this further incentivized people great culture within the heartland, Kansas. to move out west. With people migrating across the country, Kansas became a more central state. Kan- In the beginning, Kansas was just a Terri- sas had a quick rise to glory as an important state tory formed after the Louisiana purchase in for people along their journey. The early Kansans not 1803. This expansion of the United States only capitalized on the travelers needs for a drink, but allowed people to move out west, travel- for their own needs as well. ling through the central parts of the coun- try. One of those territories being Kansas, 44/45

Kansas flavors Brewing in Kansas wasn’t necessarily easy Another difficulty with brewing was having either. The first brewers in Kansas had to access to water. A lot of breweries were in buy brewing supplies a year in advance fact built by rivers to solve the problem of because of how long it took to deliver half- water accessibility. Having an onsite well way across the country (Higgins 1992, 9). was another important water supply for the Although many things were obtained from brewers. It could provide a clean steady other states, there were a few things that source of water for the brewery, while could be made right here in Kansas. For surface water from rivers and creeks was instance, cords of wood to fuel the kettle easier to come by but the mineral content fires and barley that was farmed locally. and taste was inconsistent (Higgins 1992, Hops could also be found wild in some ar- 12). It was ok that they used this water that eas and cultivated in others, but most used many wouldn’t drink today, because they hops shipped from abroad (Higgins 1992, treated the water and boiled it. The alcohol 9). As far as bottling goes, many Kansas fermenting helped purify the water further. breweries saw it as much more of a hassle The access to water also helped with other and stuck to using kegs. Federal law also parts of beer production. required bottling be done in a separate building as well, so that’s why kegs were the ideal choice (Higgins 1992, 10). Grab a beer and go fishing in Beaver Creek starting in Sherman County.

Want to hear the rush of water?Check out Bow Creek in Sheridan County. Pop a tent, drink some beer and relax by Tuttle Creek Lake in Pottawatomie County. 46/47

Kansas flavors DRY SPELL ice for a single dollar (Higgins 1992, 12). The issue of keeping beer cold also caused One thing no one ever thinks about is how problems when shipping. Since it required breweries would store their beverages once so much ice to keep beer cold, they couldn’t made. During the warmer parts of the year, ship it very far. The Kansas beer barely trav- the heat could destroy the beer, tempera- eled out of state on occasions (Higgins ture control is an important part of making 1992, 13). It also cost too much to ship and storing beer. As stated earlier, cooling via train. It took a lot of time before Kansas is also important for stabilizing the beer. For Brewing became a nationwide industry. this reason, breweries had to spend large amounts of money on ice, spending any- By the time the beer industry was well where between 1 to 5 cents a pound. Also established in Kansas, talk of prohibition considering that it took an actual ton of ice sprouted. The temperance movement was to store a single barrel. Many breweries had a cause for concern to many. The move- to fish ice out of rivers, ponds, and creeks ment was led by a famous Kansan, Carry during the winter and used it to store their Nation who started the Women’s Chris- beer through the spring and summer. Har- tian Temperance movement in Kansas. vesting the ice was tough, in order to get She was known for taking a hatchet to the enough ice, it had to build up sometimes Carey Hotel bar in Wichita Kansas and even growing 16 inches thick before begin- smashing up the place. Nation’s Women’s ning the process (Higgins 1992, 11). This Christian Temperance union was founded all continued until 1880 when a machine was made that could created one ton of